The Old Shoe Cobbler

Like the old village blacksmith, every hamlet had its shoe cobbler. He had his large work bench cluttered with batches of leather, tools of his trade and spools of thread. He also had quantities of bee's wax, which he generously applied to his thread.

On the shelves above his work bench were many boxes of various sizes. Between the shelf and the bench was a rack for his various odd shaped hammers. Awls of all sorts would be included in this rack.

Usually, in a back room was his supply of various thickness. There were horsehides, cowhides, pig or even goat available in most shops. Generally these hides were tanned locally. Yes, there were tanneries in nearly every corner of the county as well as in the center. These tanneries operated on the so-called 'bark' process. Many a farmer during the winter and early spring made extra money by cutting, peeling the bark from rock-oak trees and hauling it to the tannery.

The heavy or thick part of the hide was usually used for making the soles and heels of shoes. The more pliable sections were for the upper part of the shoe. The cobbler had lasts and molds for every size. Before the use of brass nails came into use, the cobbler fastened the soles and heels by use of wooden pegs. They were bought by the keg. The pegs were small, square-pointed at the end, and about three-fourths of an inch long. After the soles were applied, the sharp ends protruded through the inside. The cobbler had to remove these points by rubbing the inside over an oval rasp. This implement resembled a shoe last. It was fastened to a large block of wood as a base (the writer has one of these and has stumped many persons as to its identity).

The cobbler had no modern sewing machine to sew the back and sides of the shoes. This was done by hand. First he would prepare his waxed linen thread. When he did not have a needle, he would usually fasten a hog bristle to the waxed end of the thread. He then punched holes through the leather with his awl, and carefully inserted the bristle, first from one side and then the other and the ends drawn through at the same time, thus making a double rather than a single stitch.

Generally, the cobbler charged five dollars to make a pair of shoes. When a farmer had a number of children to be fitted for new shoes, or, for himself or the wife, he would have each member stand on a sheet of paper barefoot, and then draw the outline of the feet, thus making certain that the right size was made. The cobbler would then fit the foot diagram to his molds until he found the exact size.

The heavy or thick part of the hide was usually used for making the soles and heels of shoes. The more pliable sections were for the upper part of the shoe. The cobbler had lasts and molds for every size. Before the use of brass nails came into use, the cobbler fastened the soles and heels by use of wooden pegs. They were bought by the keg. The pegs were small, square-pointed at the end, and about three-fourths of an inch long. After the soles were applied, the sharp ends protruded through the inside. The cobbler had to remove these points by rubbing the inside over an oval rasp. This implement resembled a shoe last. It was fastened to a large block of wood as a base (the writer has one of these and has stumped many persons as to its identity).

The cobbler had no modern sewing machine to sew the back and sides of the shoes. This was done by hand. First he would prepare his waxed linen thread. When he did not have a needle, he would usually fasten a hog bristle to the waxed end of the thread. He then punched holes through the leather with his awl, and carefully inserted the bristle, first from one side and then the other and the ends drawn through at the same time, thus making a double rather than a single stitch.

Generally, the cobbler charged five dollars to make a pair of shoes. When a farmer had a number of children to be fitted for new shoes, or, for himself or the wife, he would have each member stand on a sheet of paper barefoot, and then draw the outline of the feet, thus making certain that the right size was made. The cobbler would then fit the foot diagram to his molds until he found the exact size.

Most cobblers were also skilled in making horse collars for the farmers as well as harnesses. Making horse collars was quite a job. This required molds also. They came in various sizes. Work or farm horses required larger sizes than the small, slick, driving horse used only for light work or pulling a buggy or sleigh. Horse collars required two types of leather. The large heavy pieces were used on the outside, while the softer parts were next to the horse's flesh. Collars usually cost ten to fifteen dollars, while a good set of harness would average twenty-five to fifty dollars depending upon the size, material and ornaments used.

Both collars and harness had to be made by hand. All stitching was by the use of awls waxed thread and bristle ends. Quite often wooden clamps and vises, also made from wood, were part of the cobbler's workshop.

In reality, the first cobblers were settlers themselves. They, to survive, had to depend upon their own ability or their neighbor's when a bear, elk or deer was slain. The hides were carefully tanned by using the brains of the animals on the flesh side of the hide. This method was also used on smaller animals, such as fox, wildcat, groundhog. Moccasins and leggings were adopted from the Indians. Each settler had to provide footwear and clothing for his family. The wives and mothers would help in the tanning process. Later, they learned how to use lime and 'hardwood ashes' along with oak bark. Moccasins had to be sewn and waterproofed.

The old village shoemaker has joined the old village blacksmith and the old country general store.